The Kimberly

Having spent the past few weeks in the Kimberly, I can safely say that it is one of the most beautiful parts of Australia and is well worth a visit if you ever have the opportunity.

Although we did spend a bit of time here in 91, we really only experienced the area around Kununurra and Lake Argyle, but this time around although we have spent less time here we have ventured over a larger geographical area.

The scenery is absolutely stunning, Aboriginal culture seems to be alive and well, plenty of wildlife, the Boab trees are very impressive and as long as you are careful to avoid the crocodiles there are plenty of swimming holes to enjoy in the numerous gorges that are the centrepiece of the Kimberly.

The ranger in Keep River National Park (which technically isn’t in the Kimberly as it is just over the border in the Northern Territory) told me that once upon a time the Kimberly was not part of the Australian mainland and actually sits on its own tectonic plate or something. I haven’t checked this fact yet so it may not be true, but it would certainly make sense if it is. Some of the rock formations and gorges are quite unlike anything else in Australia.

Take the formations in the Bungle Bungle range for example. These beehive looking formations are pretty cool to say the least. And then there is the Devonian reef at Winjana gorge and Tunnel Creek. Once a coral reef under a tropical sea it now towers a hundred metres above the surrounding plain with a croc filled river running through the middle of it. It is just stunning to see.

On the subject of crocs, the Kimberly certainly has its fair share of those. Fortunately most of the waterholes that are cool, clear and inviting for a swim are only inhabited by freshwater crocs. Freshies are pretty placid and non threatening things that have no interest in eating people, and are generally happy to share their waterhole with you as long as you leave them alone.

Saltwater crocs on the other hand are not to be messed with. Salties would like nothing more than to eat you for dinner, so if there is even a slight chance that a saltie might be around then swimming, or even getting too close to the waters edge is off the agenda.

There seems to also be some extremely good examples of ancient Aboriginal rock art in the Kimberly. The age of some is these is mind blowing and the fact that you can just walk right up to them (no fences, barriers, entry fees). Some of the artwork is dated at more than 20,000 years old. Pretty sure that anything of that sort of age elsewhere in the world in under lock and key.

One of the most interesting paintings that seems to appear all over the Kimberly is the Wandjina. These spirit beings started appearing around 4,000 years ago and were apparently repainted over the top of the original every decade or so. The Wandjina are painted with a round white face, big round eyes, what appears to be a halo or helmet of some kind and a nose but no mouth. The story that goes with them is that they came down from the sky and shaped the land and the rivers and looked after the people. Apparently they realised this was a pretty big job so they sent for reinforcements and more of them arrived later. When they left, some went back into the sky and some went into the earth and live at the source of natural springs.

I have to say though, that the roads (if you can call them roads) in this part of the world are pretty poor to say the least. I guess that is part of the appeal though and it is part of what keeps this region remote as without a four wheel drive you really are not going to get very far. But, I am a bit over dust and corrugations now. The Kimberly roads have given us three punctures, a cracked windscreen, one cabinet rebuild in Lucy (our little camper) numerous loose screws, nuts and bolts and five fridge explosions. Not the actual fridge exploding but the contents making a bit for freedom and ending up all over the floor. We have had scrambled eggs, yoghurt, salad dressing and sun dried tomatoes in oil decorating the inside of the van.

Just recently though, we have hit the coast and we are currently camped in a little slice of paradise (over 100ks on sand tracks and one fridge explosion to get here though). Now, living in South East Queensland we are pretty spoiled when it comes to beaches, but I have to say that what we have found here on the Dampier Peninsula north of Broome are as good as Queensland, unless you are a serious surfer that is. And there is always the concern that there could be a random croc swimming by even though the locals (this is all Aboriginal land) assure us that there are none around. Actually what the guy at our current camping spot said was ‘no crocs or stingers…..but don’t let your guard down though’. Still, I have had a swim everyday and I am not writing this from the belly of a saltie.

Our current camping spot really deserves a mention as it really is pretty special. We are at a little place called Middle Lagoon which is on extremely well managed Aboriginal land. There are toilets and hot showers (bonus) and we have a camping spot overlooking a beautiful lagoon. We are shaded by coconut laden palms and our own little beach shelter where we can sit and watch the whales swim by during the day and sit by the camp fire and wonder at the stars at night.